Peace Corps service in the Federated States of Micronesia and the Republic of Palau, which--along with the Republic of the Marshall Islands--make up the Pacific "Freely Associated States."
This week I had my eighth graders write dialogues about Pohnpeian traditions, with spectacularly fun results. Here’s my personal favorite, written and performed with aplomb by two of my top students and my one IEP (Pohnpei DoE for Special Ed) student, all boys. [Brackets mine]
[Shakira and Peggy enter from left; Sinsohn enters from right] Shakira: Hi, how are you? Peggy: What’s your name? Sinsohn: My name is Sinsohn. What is your name? Peggy: [With hands on hips and feminine flair] This is my friend Shakira, and I am Peggy. Shakira: What is an important tradition in Pohnpei? Sinsohn: Planting yam. Peggy: How do you plant the yam? Sinsohn: We will dig a hole, put the yam in the hole, and bury it. Shakira: And then what do you do? Sinsohn: After one week, we will put a stick on the yam, and the vine will grow into the trees. Peggy: How do you eat the yam? Sinsohn: We will take it out of the hole, wash it, peel the yam, and cook it and eat it with our hands. Shakira: Ewwww! Gross! Peggy: Disgusting! Sinsohn: I mean spoon. Peggy: Oh, I’m sorry. Shakira: Oh, spoon! Sinsohn: Yes, I mean we will eat it with a spoon. Peggy: That’s how you eat it? Sinsohn: Yes. Shakira: Okay, thank you. Peggy: Goodbye, see you later. Sinsohn: You’re welcome!
The most recent batch of photos are up on her picasa (to be captioned by me soon), AND she posted this little beauty from Madolenihmw Women's Day. I didn't previously know the teenage girls to whom I handed my camera, but they seemed to know how to cheer me on, nonetheless. Also, listen for random people laughing at the "lien wai" -- that means "white woman." You see, there are 7 or 8 districts in Madolenihmw ... District 2 (Pwin Keriau) was the only one with a foreigner.
The 21st Century is coming at us all at once here in Section II of Madolenihmw. I've been back at site for less than a week, and I'm already practically live-blogging a town-hall-style meeting that just finished (from the internet-accessible computer in our air-conditioned school office). The meeting's purpose: To find out what the residents of Section II (the part of Madolenihmw for which Lukop Elementary School is the center) think about the current State Legislature bill that would approve the construction of a "premier casino/resort" in our community.
Here's the deal -- I found out about the meeting this morning from my host sister (typical), and I didn't even know the purpose for the meeting until I got to school (also typical; we're not too big on foreward notice). The meeting took place in my classrooms (the divider between 7th and 8th grade was removed to accommodate the number of attendees), and I perched atop the table that holds my 8th grade grammar books to watch the proceedings.
For about 3 hours, the chairman of a committee (I think it was the committee to build the casino, although no one could confirm it) fielded questions and comments from members of the community while the Nanmwarki, various local leaders, and a handful of legistators, looked on. There were several copies of the bill circulating, so I had a look. I was not particularly impressed with its contents, and by the sound of things, very few other memebers of the community were, either. Almost ever person who spoke stated their disbelief that a giant commercial enterprise aimed to increase tourism revenues -- through a 1000+ room hotel, casino, and golf course -- could do so without negatively impacting most aspects of life here (culture, environment, etc.).
I'm not sure if this juncture was more to let locals know that life will very soon change in a big way, or if it was actually a chance for policians to listen to their constituents. For me, I'm a bit torn. My instinct is against it because it embodies the destruction of one of the last vestiges of strong, Pohnpeian culture on the island. Everything I love about Lukop is tied up in its distance from the (tackier) development around Kolonia. But in assessing these feelings, I have to be realistic: I like the "quaintness" of Lukop, in part at least, because I know I'll be returning to commericalism and creature comforts in due time. Would it actually be an improvement, a step forward for this community?
Most people here don't know, but almost everyone is wary of this impact this change would have. As the time for the Compact to expire draws ever-nearer, the government has chosen an increase in tourism as the vehicle through which to bring money to Pohnpei/the FSM. However, everyone seems, in word at least, to prioritize the protection of local culture. I, for one, feel those goals are at odds with one another. I'm not sure how we're going to swing it.
In related news, I've heard they're almost finished constructing a new cell tower that would ensure reliable cell service to the community. I know it makes me a bit of a hypocrite, but that's a change I can really get behind.
I’ve been meaning to write up an update concerning my news and happenings for some time now, but am only just getting started on it as the summer draws to a close. A favored few of you have gotten an email from my mom (Happy Belated Birthday, Mama!) providing a mini-update. I hope to expand on that lovely memo here.
The biggest piece of news relates to the last couple of posts – because of my host Pahpa’s health condition, I’m moving in with a new host family.
This possibility has been a worry in the back of my mind since Pahpa’s stroke in early July. Because it happened on Majuro, Nohno and Pahpa were off-island for about a month waiting for him to heal enough to fly. During that time, my Peace Corps boss Largo and I decided to postpone making a housing decision until after their return. Well, they came home just under two weeks ago, and it was not long after welcoming them back that I realized I would be a burden to them if I were to stay in their home until the end of service. Largo agreed, and so did Nohno—after she got Pahpa home from the hospital and realized how crowded the house was.
Although it is very hard to leave them—and although the news that I would be moving out upset my Nohno at first—there is a silver lining. First, Pahpa is making good progress in his recovery, and I’m sure that will continue with the use of the house’s extra room. He still cannot sit up or move independently, but he is getting stronger and, about a week ago, he regained his ability to talk. Second, because I will be continuing to live and work in the same community, I will be able to visit the family often. Already I feel that my relationship with Nohno has improved, now that I can contribute to the family without taking anything away from them.
I had two major concerns with the possibility of moving host families. The first was that my first host family would be angry or hurt by my decision; it is a huge relief to see them taking it so well. The second concern was, well, who would take me in. I seem to have been totally lucky in this respect, too.
The search for my new family took about a week and was accomplished with such efficiency and such a lack of complications that I’m still pinching myself to make sure it’s not all a dream. The family lives in the village between my last host family and my school so that I have a much shorter commute to class (<10>40 minute walk), but, as I mentioned, I will still be able to visit my first host family. I’ll also have more neighbors and be significantly closer to the stores and churches in “the downtown area” of my site. My new Nohno is a very warm, very big lady who is the resident local medicine practitioner. My new host Pahpa is a fisherman, and it looks like I’ll have a lot of host siblings. I know the family only a little, but they are very well liked by the community, and about 3 months ago (before this situation arose) the Nohno mentioned to me that they would have liked to host a Peace Corps. This desire seems undiminished. My principal alerted them to my situation, Largo and a couple of PCVs went by to check out the house, and everyone agrees that even though many people live there already, there is an enormous warmth and excitement about their preparations—they really want me! (I’m nervous that I’ll be displacing someone, but the family also has an extra little house that they’d be willing to renovate for me, and I would love to work with them on that so that I can help increase/improve their living space in the long run).
In describing what’s going on I probably sound quite distant from the events at hand. The simple explanation for that is that I am distant at present: I’ve been living in Kolonia for the past three weeks. My temporary digs are a currently unoccupied house that Peace Corps rents for its staff. We (the PCVs) got to live there while running a 2-week library camp at the end of July (which was great fun, btw). And for this past week I’ve been staying there while all of this was getting sorted out – the two outer island girls who are also presently “homeless” (ie: waiting for their return ships/planes to be scheduled) have been lovely roommates.
So, to sum up the summer as a whole, I would say it has been a departure from all my service before this. Whereas earlier I was far from town living cozily with a host family, the summer brought lots of temporary changes to both place and family. Between Camp GLOW, my birthday celebration (a lovely weekend that even included a barbecue at the US Embassy – Go, America!), and Library Camp, I have spent a considerable amount of time bumming around Kolonia (even though it’s not as modernized as the US, this time has served up a huge chunk of consumerism, and, consequently, taken a sizeable chunk out of my savings). Add worries about my host family/future living to the mix, and you will find a girl beside herself with newness.
But summer was a good time, too. There was plenty of time and space for PCV-bonding. The camps we helped to run were both fun and successful (an agreeable mix!), and I polished up a long-rusty hobby: ukulele! EJ sent me a new instrument for my birthday, and I’ve been having a grand time relearning to tune it and discovering chords. I have high hopes for Uke as Integration Tool as I move in with my new family tomorrow.
Another victory for being in town is the amount I’ve been able to stay connected with loved ones. I’ve been spoiled rotten with skype dates with family and friends. And I have enjoyed I’ve gotten lots of mail (an avalanche of birthday cards, especially … THANK YOU!). But a note on mail – from now on, please only send to PO Box 9 (the other PO Box was the personal one for my former host family).
But now I’ve just skyped with my folks and my computer is almost out of juice and time. Be well, you all! And be in touch!
So sorry to have kept everyone in suspense for so long -- who am I, to post a scary call for prayer and then never tell you what happened next?!
Anyway, I am happy to report that Pahpa is in stable condition and looks to be on the mend. Nohno flew to Majuro to be with him a few days after the stroke. Before she lefte we had heard rumors about life support (or, in rough translation of the Pohpeian phrase for it: "the machine beating his heart for him"). But that is not the case -- his heart is fine and beating on its own. And since Nohno has been with him, he has gradually gotten stronger -- he is no longer on oxygen or using an IV. He can eat. He can communicate with Nohno, although I'm not sure if that means actual speech yet. And, even though it looks like Pahpa will be using a wheelchair for the time being, the doctors are talking about physical therapy for him to regain movement on his left side.
Although I haven't talked to Nohno myself in a few days, I have heard that they are planning to come back to Pohnpei in a couple of weeks, and that my host brother (who lives in Florida and I have not yet met) might be coming with his wife and son to stay with us and help out around the house, too.
In the mean time, a wonderful cousin of ours and her family have been staying at the house with the kids and me (that is, when I'm home and not in town for meetings, projects, etc).
There has been a lot of coming and going in my neck of the woods, and it looks like it's going to continue. So big praises that Pahpa is in a stabe state, and maybe a prayer request that I can be calm and flexible for whatever the future holds.
Much love, and thank you all for your support! Mollie
I just found out from Nohno that Pahpa has had a stroke and is in the Majuro hospital in critical condition. The doctors say the stroke was caused by undiagnosed diabetes. Pahpa was off-island for a professional conference, and although that distance makes the news harder on us, he will likely get better medical care there than here.
Diabetes, heart disease, and cancer are incredibly prevalent and fast-growing killers in Micronesia. They're all the more tragic because they are usually preventable through diet and lifestyle changes and regular checkups. The rising statistics have been making me feel depressed and frustrated since I've been aware of them, but this development has brought those emotions to a much more raw and personal place.
Please pray for Pahpa. We're all very worried about him right now.
The last day of school was exactly one month ago, and time has been flying since then. The key word of this post is “surprise” … I’m learning that wonderful things happen when I relax and just let them go.
The first notable event after the end of school was graduation. My kids graduated the morning of May 27, the Thursday following the end of school. For a month we had been rehearsing their entrance, songs, exit, and other troop movements. From all of that I thought I knew exactly what to expect. But I was wrong. Graduation day found me surprised. It was a rainy morning as everyone arrived, and I was surprised to see how well—and in coordination—all of my students had cleaned up. All the boys were channeling the Blues Brothers in white oxfords and black ties—many with fly shades and all with spanking new kicks of the sneaker variety. The girls looked radiant in white silk dresses, fancy jewelry and hair, and makeup! (a first for many of them) Our graduation was much like a wedding—it was held in a church, we had two flower girls, and there was a receiving line afterwards with all 29 graduates accepting congratulations from everyone in attendance. After the first moment of the ceremonies—except for maybe when each student accepted his/her diploma along with mwarmwars/leis and hugs from family onstage—my surprises became less enjoyable. I was surprised at how hot & stuffy it got in the church, at how many people were crowded in. I was very unfortunately surprised at how long and inanely the guest speaker’s address was, and I was hungrily surprised at how quickly and voraciously the refreshments were horded and devoured by everyone but me. (I was trying to take pictures! Silly!) But my students were radiant and all 29 of them passed the high school entrance exam and will be continuing their education. The best surprise was perhaps how honestly proud of them I felt.
The next big news after graduation was Camp GLOW, a girls’ development camp led by the female Pohnpei PCVs from June 8-11. The week between the two events was spent running around soliciting donations and following up with guest speakers and participants. The camp was free(!!!) and open to the recently graduated 8th grade girls from each of our schools. Eleven girls came from Lukop—my most surprising cancellation was from one of my girls who couldn’t go because she was recently married! Camp was held at a beach park outside of Kolonia with enough space for all of the girls to sleep, play, and listen to speakers (all local professionals) who regaled us on various points of interest. Our focus was health—particularly mental, sexual, and making healthy choices with their futures. The girls also got to do the typical camp activities like arts & crafts, swimming, and immediately bonding with their new friends from around the island. We even had a talent show in which we PCVs/camp counselors made fools of ourselves with a Camp GLOW rewrite of an ABBA song—everyone loved it. I was particularly in my element and I may have overused my megaphone privileges. At separate times all of the other PCVs mentioned to me that my calling in life might just be that of a professional camp counselor.
Since then things at site have really taken off … and completely unexpectedly, too! We started the four weeks of summer school on Tuesday (only 3 days a week), and I am confident that my co-teachers and I will find a good rhythm for planning and teaching our 1.5 hours of English for each 7th and 8th grades. But also this week I was invited to participate in my community’s women’s group – next Wednesday all the women’s groups in Madolenihmw will come together to perform dances and compete in local games like “push a tire” or “juggle noni (small fruit) & run” faster than everyone else. Although I joined initially to learn local dance styles, my group elected to dance the “bus stop” (Pohnpeian for “electric slide”) and … the Macarena! It has been fun and very silly. By contrast, I was also invited to the evening revivals held every day this week at the local Baptist church. This evening is the final potluck fellowship & service. Both opportunities have been fun, new ways to interact with my neighbors, and I believe I might actually be making lasting friendships!
Mollie Wright, PCV
PO Box 9
Kolonia, Pohnpei, FM 96941
My name is Mollie Wright and this blog is meant to be a record of my Peace Corps service in the Federated States of Micronesia & Palau from September 2009 to November 2011. The experiences and opinions expressed here are entirely my own. They do not in any way reflect the views of the Peace Corps or the US Government.
